Even after one of the driest wet seasons in living memory - Katherine Gorge is awe inspiring. The sheer volume of water held in the 13 gorges as the Katherine River winds its way out of the Kakadu and Nitmiluk National Parks is hard to fathom for southerners more used to the muddy puddles that make up our inland waterways.
Nitmiluk National Park
We started our visit to Nitmiluk National Park with an afternoon sojourn at Edith Falls (Leliyin) after the longish drive south from Wiligi Outstation in North West Arnhem Land. Just 20km off the Highway (about 60km in total from Katherine), on a sealed road, the lower pools at Leliyin are easily accessed from the carpark and picnic area - and make an ideal spot to cool off after a long drive. We did the 2.6km loop walk around to the upper pool, but unfortunately didn't have time to do the longer 8.6km Sweetwater Pool walk - which gets you well away from the punters, and effectively covers the last leg of the epic six day from Jatbula Trail from Nitmiluk to Leliyin (which is now definitely on our bucket list). Regardless, our late afternoon swim in the lower pool was just beautiful - and a great way to cap off the day.
Then, after a cool off at Leliyin, it was a quick run into town for a little bit of luxury. We had two nights booked at the Knott's Crossing Resort - a very handy (and reasonably affordable) hotel/motel/caravan park complex. After five nights remote camping it was probably time for a bit of a spruce up. However, with the Variety Club Rally (and it's 50 or so vehicles and occupants) also staying at Knott's Crossing after their own Arnhem Land adventure, it's fair to say there was a fair queue at the laundry!
If we were to camp, there are powered sites at the Gorge itself, or excellent unpowered sites at Leliyn (Edith Falls) - which were full when we arrived, and cannot be pre-booked. It is first in first served.
"We headed back to the main section of the Nitmiluk Park the following day, where there are a wide range of walks that can be taken from the Visitor information centre."
The ranger on duty suggested we give the 12km Butterfly Gorge walk a try - and we weren't disappointed. The track was easy to follow - with three water refilling spots along the way. Even in winter, the temperature was well above 30 degrees Celsius by mid morning, and we were more than happy to have the extra drinking water on hand. There were some pretty steep sections - particularly getting up onto the escarpment at the start, and also when we were descending (and later ascending) into Butterfly Gorge itself. Needless to say, the shade from the gorge provided a nice cool shelter where we could enjoy our picnic lunch.
Then it was back to Katherine for a bit of "resupplying" and then relaxing in the afternoon - with a bit more washing at Knott's Crossing!
Katherine
Resupplying: Katherine itself was an important "Resupply Point" for our trip further south - with an excellent Woolworths for all our groceries, and an "all purpose newsagent" for tea towels and Territory Day Fireworks!!!
Where to Eat: I can highly recommend the Barramundi and Chips at The Katherine Club. On previous visits to town, I have been known to subsist on this, and this alone, for days on end.
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