RUGGED ranges, shaded gorges and deep water holes. The ancient landscape west of Alice Springs is unique and beautiful. Easily accessible in conventional vehicles, this region should be on the must do list of every Central Australian traveller, and the Watarrka National Park (Kings Canyon) was - in our view - the highlight.
Watarrka (Kings Canyon): The three hour, 6 kilometre loop Kings Canyon Rim Walk was simply breathtaking - in more ways than one. With some 500 steps, the steep climb from the carpark had us all blowing hard - even though we are a fairly fit bunch - but once up on the canyon rim itself, the going was a lot easier, and absolutely beautiful. That said, it is somewhat sobering to note the permanent "defib" emergency stations and chopper landing areas dotted at strategic points along the walk. It's probably best not to take this one on if you're partial to a couple of meat pies for breakfast....if you get my drift.
We'd timed our walk to catch the late afternoon sun - and were rewarded with a beautiful colour display on the "breadknife" cliffs of the canyon walls. If you are feeling fit, then make the time and definitely go for the Rim Walk rather than the 4.8km South Wall return walk.
Beehive like rock formations formed by years of jointing, cracking and weathering formed domes all around the canyon rim, while 150 metres below us the Kings Creek meandered along the valley floor. About half way around the rim walk we crossed Cotterill's Bridge - originally built by tourism pioneer Jack Cotterill in 1962 over a narrow gap in the Canyon - to the superb Cotterill's lookout, before clambering down to the permanent Garden of Eden waterhole. The lush greenery and birdlife surrounding the cool, shady waterhole gave it a pre-historic feel....and this is a place of "secret mens business" for the local Arrernte people.....which means (to us at least), it remains a secret.
Camping: There is no camping at Watarrka, so we opted for a campsite at the Kings Canyon Resort (the other options being Kings Creek Station or the Kings Canyon Wilderness Lodge.) The Resort was excellent - and we were perhaps lucky that we were upgraded to an "ensuite site" - so alongside the Jaycos and Winnebagos our little ghetto of swags and tent constituted the worst house in the best street.
Regardless, this was a very comfortable stay!
Tjoritja (West MacDonnell National Park): Home to the epic 223 kilometre Larapinta Trail, Tjoritja is a bushwalkers paradise - encompassing the rugged West MacDonnell mountain range with countless gorges, and waterholes. The "back to nature" swimming opportunities in the warmer months are superb - but it was a little bit fresh for us in the middle of winter. You could spend a week (or more) exploring this region alone - but for most travellers (including us) this is just not practical, and choices need to be made. For us, this meant visiting Angkerle (Standley Chasm) and Glen Helen Gorge only....which perhaps did not do this area full justice.
Angkerle (Standley Chasm), just 50km west of Alice Springs, sits on aboriginal land, and at just 9 metres wide and 80 metres high is widely considered one of the most spectacular chasms in Tjoritja. It's just a short 1.2km wheelchair accessible walk from the carpark to the chasm (via the kiosk), but keen hikers can take in sections 3 (13.6km) and 4 (17.7km) of the Larapinta Trail from here - requiring a lot more preparation and perhaps a couple of days hike! We took the easy option, and just walked up and back to the chasm!!.
Glen Helen Gorge was another 100km down the bitumen from Angkerle, at the other end of the Namatjira Drive. Encompassing a bend in the Finke River, the red rocks of the gorge tower over a permanent waterhole just a short walk from the Glen Helen Homestead (originally built in 1905). The Homestead stands in reminder of the determination of the early pastoralists in the area - and now forms the 'hub' of the Glen Helen Lodge - offering rooms, camping and excellent facilities (including hot showers and a laundry). Given we were traveling in the peak winter "school holiday" period, we decided to camp at Glen Helen rather than chance our arm at one of the numerous camping areas within the Tjoritja National Park (Ellery Creek, Redbank Gorge, Serpentine Chalet and Ormiston Gorge) which cannot be booked ahead. It was a great stop - and the verandah overlooking the cliffs of the gorge was a great place for a sunset drink. In retrospect, however, we would have been better off in a non powered site. The powered sites were hard and not really suitable for pegging out tents or swags....and we were packed in a little "cheek by jowl" with the grey nomads. The non powered sites, by comparison, were more spread out - with a generally better "ambience"!
Traveling: We came into Tjoritja after camping at Ti Tree (some 195km north of Alice), and then stopping in town for supplies at Woolworths, The Thirsty Camel and the sensational Milners Meats. From here until Glen Helen was all easy going on the bitumen along the Namatjira Drive.
Mereenie Loop Road: From Glen Helen, we took the "permit only" scenic 230km Mereenie Loop Road through aboriginal land to Kings Canyon. Depending on the direction of travel, the permit can be purchased at Glen Helen Resort, Hermannsburg Petrol Station or Kings Canyon Resort. The road is unsealed, and recommended for 4WD only, although with the right conditions it would be quite doable in a 2WD. We averaged about 80km/hr and were just poking along pretty steady.
Once we'd dparted Kings Canyon Resort, it was 325km easy going (and relatively featureless driving) on the bitumen to Uluru.
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